Tuning forks might seem a bit archaic in a world with tuner-equipped guitars and self tuning instruments, but there is a reason they have managed to stay around longer than their ill-fated cousin the pitch pipe (which sounded really annoying and produced questionable pitches).
For one thing, tuning forks never need to be calibrated (meaning they always produce the same pitch). Some old needle type tuners would routinely need to be calibrated-and the trusty “flatware” would correct their deficiencies.
Tuning forks can come in several pitches, but the most common one is A=440 Hz. This is what is known as concert pitch.
***Most all tuning forks have the letter they produce stamped into the handle. Don’t guess-you can break strings and damage the bridge!!!
If your tuning fork is labeled E, this will tune your 6th/Low E string. After it’s tuned, you can tune the other strings the way we learned in the Tuning a Guitar to Itselfsection. Now we are at concert pitch.
If your tuning fork is labeled A, this will tune your 5th/A string.After it’s tuned, you can tune the other strings (DGBE) the way we learned in the Tuning a Guitar to Itselfsection. Remember we still have to tune your 6th/Low E. The easiest way is to play the Low E 5th fret and tune your 6th string to match the open A string.
Guitar picks (or plectrums as they are sometimes called) come in a variety of different sizes, shapes, gauges (thickness) and composition. I’ve seen and played picks made out of real tortoise shell, copper, brass, stone, wood, bone, feathers, carbon graphite, synthetic resins and celluloid!
They each have their pros and cons, but you’ll find certain types better suited for different styles and playing techniques.
Size-
Face facts…SIZE DOES MATTER!!! A ridiculously large pick
doesn’t help your technique at all.
The idea is to have your thumb and index finger holding close to the center of the pick.
With a large pick, you have too much “sway” on the striking side (and opposite side). Imagine trying to sweep your floor with one hand holding a broom in the middle. There’s a lot of wasted motion to compensate for the big broom’s size. Now imagine the same chore using a small hand broom. Each sweep is more productive and you are much more accurate with a small, easy to manage tool. The same concept holds true for your pick…
So…OVERSIZED picks are BAD!
Shapes-
The most common shapes:
*All of these shapes are small enough to be accurate and manageable. Try several to find a shape that suits you.
Gauges-
Gauge refers to the thickness of a pick. Usually they are rated:
Extra thin/light (.44mm)
thin/light (.45-.69mm)
medium (.70-.84mm)
heavy (.85-1.20mm)
extra heavy (1.20-3mm & beyond)
The thinner the pick, the more “give” it has. It is ideally suited for lightly strummed acoustic guitar chords or even funk guitar chords that you might want to sound “softer” and not so heavy handed. Thin picks don’t have enough mass to really move the string hard-they have a little play in them. These are a good choice for beginners.
Thicker picks don’t give nearly as much as thinner ones, so their contact with the string is more forceful. These picks are excellent for single note runs because they don’t bend at the end of a pick stroke. Given their extra thickness, heavier picks respond more immediate than picks that bend or “wag”. These picks take a while to adjust to (many beginners hit the strings so hard that they pull the guitar out of tune).
A good player should be able to play with any size and gauge. Compensating for the differences is a sure sign that your picking hand is progressing nicely.
Composition-
The composition of a pick has a big impact on the sound and feel. Dense materials like stone and metal have a brighter sound than porous materials like wood or ceramics. They also are considerably more durable.
Nylon is another popular pick material, but it tends to wear down much quicker than other composites.
A word of advice: stay away from “novelty” picks. You know the kind that change pictures when you tilt them. These are usually nothing more than stamped cardboard with a thin coating for the design. A few hours of real playing and they become confetti in your hand…
I use custom-made 351 shape “glow in the dark” picks by Steve Clayton USA (medium to medium/heavy thickness).
