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The first thing we need to do is remove the old strings. Start off by loosening each string until it’s slack. Then simply cut off the strings. Remove the strings from the headstock. Remove the wrap around bridge. Take out each string.
Now is a good time to clean up your instrument- you can reach all those inaccessible spots the strings were covering.
If you have a rosewood fingerboard, you can also apply some “guitar-grade” lemon oil. Rosewood is a porous wood and it can start to dull and crack over time if left unchecked. A bit of Lemon oil will rehydrate it and help clean it. Just apply a generous amount on the fingerboard and let it seep in. Wipe off any excess.
Put on the new strings. Start with your Low E and make sure the strings are oriented correctly. Put the bridge back on so that it makes contact with the posts. Start with the Low E string and wrap it over the saddle (the position the string sits on) and pull it taut up to your Low E tuner.
Now measure 1 post up. Make a right angle bend, aiming in towards the key. This helps us measure the correct string length. Feed the string through to your bend and start tightening. You can use your fingers to guide the string into a descending coil around the post. Stop when you feel tension. Check to make sure you’re in the nut slot and on the saddle. *Remember, you can always loosen and reposition a string.
If everything looks good, you can go ahead and cut the excess off. Cut close to the post but MAKE SURE YOU DON’T CUT THE STRING ITSELF!!!
Let’s try the A string. Pull it taut to its tuner. Now measure 1 post up. Make a right angle bend, aiming in towards the key. Feed the string through to the bend and start tightening. Guide the string into a descending coil around the post. Cut the string close to the post.
When we come to the D string on a “3+3” type guitar (3 tuners per side of the headstock), we need to measure a little differently because we ran out of posts. Pull the string taut over its post. Now pinch it to mark its distance. Move your pinched “marker” to any other post and measure 1 post and make your right angle bend. Now just feed the string through to the bend and start tightening. Guide the string into a descending coil around the post.” Do the same for the G string. Finish putting on the rest of the strings.
It takes a little a little time for the strings to lose their elasticity, but we can help them along by stretching them. Fret notes from low to high on each string and give a tug every time you change position. If you do this after tuning a few times it will really help the strings break in faster.
Guitarists are always looking for new ways to expand their creativity and find new sounds on their instrument. A very simple way to accomplish this is to change the tuning of the guitar.
The most common introduction to this practice would be to tune all the strings evenly up or down.
If we lower each string by 1/2 step, we would have: Eb(6th) Ab(5th) Db(4th) Gb(3rd) Bb(2nd) Eb(1st).
We could still use any shape/scale/chord, but now they are named 1/2 step lower. Think of it this way: if you are in standard tuning, a C is a C. But if we detune a half-step, that C chord has effectively dropped down, too, making your C chord sound like a B chord (1/2 step lower than the original name). Your G chord is now a F# chord, A would be a G#, etc.
Essentially, you are playing familiar shapes and fingerings, but with the sounds lower than standard. They still retain the same relationship to each other.
You can also try tuning a WHOLE step down. Your strings would now be: D(6th) G(5th) C(4th) F(3rd) A(2nd) D(1st). This is the same idea as above except your shape actually sounds a whole step lower. For example, if you are playing a G chord it is in reality an F. An A would be a G, etc.
Can we also tune higher than standard? Sure…but not much.
It’s possible to raise your strings a half-step making: F(6th) A#(5th) D#(4th) G#(3rd) C(2nd) F(1st). Now every chord would sound a half-step higher than the shape you are playing. An E would sound like an F and a G would sound like a G#. Theoretically you could tune higher, but do so at your own risk.
Tuning higher adds undue stress on your instrument, especially acoustics. It’s much more common to use a CAPO than it is to tune UP. You can find out more by checking out the Using a Capo page.
All of the examples above keep the relationships between the strings even. But it’s also possible to tune the guitar to change these relationships. This can be as simple as altering one string or tuning every string differently!
Probably the most common alteration is called Drop D Tuning. This tuning expands the range of the guitar by effectively giving us 2 extra notes below the Low E String. We just tune the Low E string DOWN to D. Now your tuning should be: D(6th) A(5th) D(4th) G(3rd) B(2nd) E(1st). Remember that your 6th string is the only one that’s been altered.This tuning is extremely popular in new pop, rock and metal. It sounds more aggressive and also allows one finger Power Chords. (Most common metal riffs would be a bit more difficult if you tried to play the conventional two finger version).
*** Many heavier bands use the idea of Drop D Tuning along with tuning a 1/2 step or whole step down. Remember that the term “Drop D” now is incorrect-but it helps other players to know that their 4th and 6th string should be tuned to the same letter. Example:
1/2 step down/drop D tuning would mean your guitar is now tuned to: Db(6th) Ab(5th) Db(4th) Gb(3rd) Bb(2nd) Eb(1st).
Whole step down/drop D tuning would mean your guitar is now tuned to: C(6th) G(5th) C(4th) F(3rd) A(2nd) D(1st).
You can experiment with variations on this idea, and if you like to consistently tune low, you might consider having your guitar set up for this tuning using heavier gauge strings.
There are TONS of different tunings!!!